7. Clans and Tartans

Song of Clan Donald
Alba is the Ancient Name of Scotland

We are Clan Donald, and our chief was once Lord of the Isles, a title now held by Prince Charles. But when his birlinn pulled into the port of Rodil on an inspection visit, what tartan would he have been wearing?



Rodil



I regret to say that most of the clan tartans were only concocted in Victorian times.

However, when respected historian, Patrick Allitt asserted in his otherwise brilliant series of lectures on British history that tartan was invented in Northwest England in the 19th Century, I thought he'd got it wrong. And he had, to a certain extent. Of course some textile factories in the north of England made millions out of the tartan craze which swept Britain after George IV donned full Highland regalia on a visit to Edinburgh. His kit, including corsets, as His Majesty was direly overweight, cost over a thousand pounds, several years' wages for your normal peasant.





George IV in Edinburgh, 1822



The checked cloth we know as tartan has been found on mummies in Western China, in parts of Eastern Europe. So maybe it was once very common, but has survived, like the bagpipes, only in certain areas.

The word 'tartan' comes from the French 'tiretain' which in this context means 'woven cloth'. The Gaelic word is 'breacan'. The various combinations of checks were originally dictated by the availability of the natural dyes used in the old days, so you could tell where someone came from by his 'sett'.                    

Word of warning! Americans call tartan 'plaid'. Winston Churchill once said that the British and Americans were divided by a common language.

The Falkirk Tartan

In 1934, a clay pot was dug up near Falkirk. In it were about 2000 Roman silver coins, dated up to 250C.E. In the mouth of the pot was a piece of plaid, light and dark brown and cream.  It's now known as the 'Falkirk tartan'. Cry your eyes out, Patrick Allitt!

Now for the kilt. Forget the endless pleats. The original 'feilidh-mhor' or belted plaid was a 5 metre length of cloth wrapped round the body, held up by a belt, with the end thrown over the shoulder. The 'feilidh-beag' was the garment which developed into the kilt we wear today. Don't forget the trousers, or trews. JamesV ordered a pair in 'heland tartane' in 1538.



Scottish Soldiers in the Service of Gustavus Adolphus, 1631

 Note the bare feet of No 3. Another footnote to history is that in the Hebrides the kilt was worn not knee length, but halfway down the calf- probably because of the B@#*** awful weather.


Highlanders


After the 45 Jacobite Rebellion, tartan was proscribed, unless you were in the army, and did not come back into use until our fat monarch took a fancy to it. But it was Queen Victoria who really put it on the map, covering any available surface at Balmoral with it.

In my youth, no self-respecting Hebridean owned a kilt, but it gradually came back. My father,  who was a trained tailor,  could make a kilt. For weddings, there is no handsomer outfit than full Highland dress.



Neil Macdonald at Culloden with Three Clan Chiefs and Assorted Americans

 The photograph above is historic. The figure in the middle is Neil Macdonald,son of Donald Macdonald and Chirsty Maclean. The chiefs are recognisable by their eagle feathers. Neil MacDonald was the first Warden of Culloden Moor, and noted figure of the Celtic Renaissance, together with two other Drinishader MacDonalds, Finlay J Macdonald and Murdo Ewen MacDonald. More about them anon. Must be something in the air. Have fun figuring out which tartan is which. Then let me know. I don't want enraged MacDonalds lining up to get me with their 'sgian dhu's'.

Now here, without apology, is a family wedding, in Australia. My nephew, Donald MacDonald Butler!

Donald MacDonald Butler's Wedding, Australia

Top Left: Brendan Tully, from Ireland, keeps Flora's car on the road when he isn't doing weddings.
Top Right: Donald MacLean MacDonald Butler, Flora's son, Stephanie Joy Butler, nee Turner.
Bottom Left: Flora, Ian Angus(Flora's brother), Kala-Jayne Butler (Donald's daughter), Stephanie Butler.
Bottom Right: Donald and Flora.

This is also an historic document. First, Donnie is wearing Uncle Neil's kilt. Keep it safe, Donnie. Secondly, it is the only family wedding I was ever invited to. Note the formidable sister Flora, bottom left with brother Ian on her left.

Macivor Wedding
The Barvas Connection

Alastair MacIvor, Donald MacIvor, parents Ina and Iain MacIvor, Ruaridh Macivor. Aunt Effie's son Iain, with his wife and sons. She was the daughter of Donald Macdonald, of 37 Northton, and my beloved and kindly aunt.

Another family wedding, this time in Lewis.

By the way, the sporran was originally used to keep food in, and the sgian dhu was not only used as an assassination instrument, but to cut food into bite sized chunks. Folks ate with their fingers in those far off days, and your plate was usually a chunk of bread.